Day 9.
My stamina is good, I have my pack sorted, I feel strong. I am powering up steep inclines that continue for 2 to 3 km.
Big blister on my 4th toe on the left foot today…. I told it to file a complaint with the Italian authorities.
The walk today was 31km mainly along very quiet laneways. The interesting experience today came once I arrived at the Agriturism accommodation but more on that later.
The Walk to Citta’ Di Castello
Again, I wanted to get away early. I am learning a 31km walk with 1500m of climb/descend can never be taken lightly.
My first task a always is to find provisions for the route; yesterday Monday, all the shops were closed so I needed water, panini and fruit. There was a bar down the road Bar 3 Bis Sri that was recommended. I got everything I needed including a service experience with a very scary (Grace Jones like, but, Italian woman – will I have nightmares?) who wasn’t impressed by my poor Italian.
So onward I went. It was cold and foggy – about 11 degrees. The fog cleared around 1030 and after that things began to warm up. But walking with a pack on means you rarely get cold.
I wasn’t happy with the initial walk, too much following roads, without walker paths and too many cars. If I come again, Mrs P, please start training, I will find the right St Thomas route out of the city.
There was only one food stop on the 31km routing, after 5 km, called Bar Sasso (perhaps a better name for the last bar) so I did not stop there. But it looked great, had a fabulous, park and playground across the road.
And this little dog followed me so far down the road – he was very friendly
The WiFi along the route was Ok initially today so after a few attempts to skype Amanda & Jack I gave up.
Once we were past the first bar there was little civilisation along the route, certainly nowhere to buy food. I had morning tea at about 11 and spend a few minutes making acquaintance with Lisabetha (Betty) from Verona. Buon Camino Betty
The walk itself looked like this.
The climbing feels easier than a few days ago.
Small farms and timber continue to be the predominant land use along the way. It does appear to be a dying trade as most of the people I see operating the farms make me feel either young of ‘in the money’.
The walk continued to surprise with ancient ruins and farmhouses and amazing vistas as the walk climbed over ridges on the way to Pietralunga.
And of course, there continues to be many properties protected by dogs.
One to the highlights along the way was “Pievendi Saddi” which includes a pilgrim hostel and an ancient church.
Pietralunga
It was threatening rain and I decided to power towards Pietralunga – a hard climb after 26kms.
The town is striking but like many places in Italy, everything was closed at 3pm when I arrived.
I found a bar open, had a Cappuccino, put the pack back on and trundled the 2km onto my accommodation. When I arrived, there was no-one here so I phoned the number …. A few minutes later 2 lovely Italian ladies arrived. Mum who was 60 and Nanna. They sat with me for 20 minutes or so we chatted via their children on the phone who acted as interpreters and I drank my (Sardinian beers).
They are funny. At 1930 they arrive, I was expecting my dinner but Nanna (she must be 75+) was driving me into town to the restaurant. I called Lucio then Giorgia, who helped ensure I knew what was going on. They told Giorgia I could have the restaurant call them for a pickup or I could sleep in the park.
The restaurant made me 2 huge panini for tomorrow. If anyone hungry I will be walking onto Gubbio and Gubbio is spectacular.
Il Triangolo was very good, I had Bresaola with rocket and parmesan (fabulous), ravioli with a sausage and a crème sauce. Thanks, Germana (beautiful Italian girl), for the recommendations.
And tomorrows Walk
The walk is a bit horter at 26 km. Only 800m of climbs and falls.
And Don’t Forget The Good Cause
In honour of the great work Black Dog institute are doing in helping many families, corporate organisations and communities create awareness and support to deal with the pressures of life, I am raising money for this important cause.
I have hit my $3,000 target – but lets do more – no amount is too small – and I need a new donation.
https://teamblackdog.everydayhero.com/au/walking-the-st-francis-way
If interested, you can read a daily debrief of my walk and see some pics on my blog: www.youcanlive2.com
Its still work in progress and you can subscribe for updates at the bottom.
Ciao till tomorrow.
Fantastic pics and good story writing. Keep it going Darren, let us know when you move to Italy for good 🙂 Lukas
Ihave some housemates selected!
Genius. A Camino in Italy. Makes me wonder about aiming for next May before the annual bike ride and before it gets hot.