Today was going to be a new experience. Caminoways ‘don’t work with accommodation at Pieve Santo Stefano’ which is the main St Francis way route so I say goodbye to my recently made friends Wies, Lenie & Liesbeth and will tackle the walk to Caprese Michaelangelo without a route map and relying on written text instructions…. I have become very used to GPX route maps.
So I leave around 9am looking for the Piazza dei Caduti. Its quite tricky to ensure you are on the right track. At times signage in Italy is very similar to that in Abu Dhabi … there are either no signs, or all the signs lead to the same place. [Note to Caminoways – just include a printed map with your guide].
The walk today would take me up to Eremo della Casella (Eremo), a famous spot in the life of St Francis, from here he had his last glimpse over the valleys of his beloved Sanctuary della Verna before heading off to Assisi and Rome. He erected a wooden cross here to commemorate this and after his death a small chapel was built which reputably has been the scene of some ‘miracles’. After that, the walk descends steeply for some km’s as I head to my night time stop at Caprese Michelangelo.
Saying goodbye to Chiusa Della Verna, I see a number of house bricked up, I imagine these small towns are struggling to keep their population just like in Australia. It was beautiful.
It was a cold start to the morning walk at about 11 degrees but a lovely sunny day so it was a great day for walking so long as you keep moving.
Overview of the Walk
I was pretty cautious initially to ensure I was on the right path and stayed there. It is so easy to take a wrong turn in the forests and end up km’s away – which generally means back tracking up or down steep hills. However, at the end of the day, it all joins together so if you take a wriong turn its just more steps for your over worked legs.
Today paths included a combination of steep downhill sections covered in sharp loose rocks (hell on your shoes and require a walking pole to be safe), very narrow and muddy dirt trails and about 6km’s of steep downhill road section.
I really enjoyed the walk to Eremo. It was a long climb uphill, about 5km’s as I ascended some 700m, but the views were spectacular were made it worthwhile. The mountain had more open vegetation which made for a nice change from the dark forests we had been walking through for the last few days.
I didn’t see many people along the way to Eremo – only a hunter with his shotgun. What was interesting though were 2 dogs I came across. I heard them coming first; the sound of cowbells. The dogs rarely strayed more than a metre away from each other. They were tracking something.
I was about half way to Eremo and the open walk and relatively gradual ascent was refreshing after the hard climbs earlier today. I was looking forward to getting there and wasnt quite sure what to expect. Amazing views … beauty and serenity (also scenerity … it’s the Italian version). It was cold at the tip and I had to rug up a bit. The climb had been big.
At Eromo De Caselli
The walk downhill and the next 10 km’s were largely down hard dirt and bitumen roads. It was a pleasant change to be on rocky unstable surfaces but become hard on the feet after a while. The highlight was the walk through the Chestnut tree forest. I cold hear them but not see them, I think squirrels are taxing production.
My overall walk is recorded below:-
Arrival at Caprese Michelangelo
Caprese Michelangelo is the birth place of the famous Michelangelo Buonarroti (there are lot of them) who was born on 6 March 1475, The Florentines though started the year on 31 March so they record this as 1474 and died on my birthday in 1564, exactly 399 years before I was born. His father was appointed the ‘Podesto’ or the high official of the region. He was an amazing child protegy. No douby one of the most talented people ever.
I visited the largely ruined castle where he was born, it was partially destroyed severlwa centuries earlier but was stll the administrative home – again what amazing view.
I walked around town, again I was pretty exhausted (and actually snuck in an hours kip at 1630). Everything is closed until 4pm!
And tomorrows Walk
The walk is a long one. Its 25km ascending 540 and descending 1100. I have one lttle pinky that’s giving me trouble…with ne good fortune.
And Don’t Forget The Good Cause
In honour of the great work Black Dog institute are doing in helping many families, corporate organisations and communities create awareness and support to deal with the pressures of life, I am raising money for this important cause.
I have hit my $3,000 target – but lets do more – no amount is too small – only $200 to go.
https://teamblackdog.everydayhero.com/au/walking-the-st-francis-way
If interested, you can read a daily debrief of my walk and see some pics on my blog: www.youcanlive2.com
Its still work in progress and you can subscribe for updates at the bottom.
Ciao till tomorrow.