Today I walked a modest 22km continuing the route down the Tiber Valley. I think it is the first day; one where you switchover from being on holiday to ‘being’. Today, time, schedule and agenda were less important than where I was. I stopped, took my time, or moved on, driven by nothing other than the moment.

It was a good walk, following the lower sides of the mountains high above the valley. The walk was predominantly through olive groves and today they are harvesting the olives. Fruit trees flush with ripe, or rotten fruit, randomly appear as you head through Italy’s food basket.

My expected highlight today was another walled city – called Trevi –  it sits in such a dramatic position and it is easy to imagine its defensive qualities in play.

Also, interesting because Campello sur Clitunno is a Roman site built around a lake Fonti del Clitunno which is fed from local springs and dedicated to the Roman river god Clitunno with a temple from the 7th century.

Walk to Trevi & Campello Sul Clitunno

Its Monday today and as such most shops, cafes and restaurants are closed until the afternoon or evening. Tradition is good but as a Tourist it’s not so great. It is a reminder that the heart and soul of a place is its people and that what is built there is secondary. Trevi today was soulless but it was clear there was an event over the weekend.

On my walk out of Foligno I came across my first speed camera in Italy. Pretty little orange thing it was too.

A few km’s out I headed uphill into the olive groves. But not before walking past this amazing tower on the outskirts of Follgno.

I don’t know there are many countries/places in the world where you can pick apples, apricots, pick up hazelnuts as you walk; today it was the Pomegranates turn. I came across the tree full of fruit, half of falling to the ground. I selected one (should have taken 2) and ate it over the next 30 minutes as I walked towards Trevi. It was sweet, luscious and perfect.

As I walked closer to Trevi the walled city became more impressive. Trevi is an old town, first mentioned by Pliny the Elder who writes about the Umbrians forming Treviae. Today the oldest parts of the walls are from the first century BC with many from Roman times. Buts its Monday and the place is quiet.

 

 

So I have a Cappuccino in the main square, go to a store, buy Prosciutto, Pecorino, Bread and Tomatoes and make a great roll and watch the world go by from the top of one of the walls. Great sandwich it was too – nearly always better when you make them yourselves.

After leaving Trevi, I pass through a little village with an amazing church, so many do. This is Bovara.

For the next hour or so I walk through Olive Groves with the harvest beginning. You can tell when the olives are going to be collected, as they mow the ground to enable the nets to be put down. From what I can see this is still a manual process.

 

 

 

I kick up my feet for a while under an olive tree and skype AJ. There are a couple of walking options for me, I pick left and climb the mountain for half an hour or so and realise I am heading for a castle I had seen earlier today.

Ther Castle of Pissignano was built in the XI and XII, when a Benedictine community decided to surround with walls the small living core of the area. The real defensive structure itself, however, was born thanks to the German Baron Sancho, who came to Italy following the Emperor Conrad II (990-1039). In July 1155 Frederick Barbarossa was in the Castle and in 1213 it belonged to the Duke Diopoldo, who donated the property to Spoleto in exchange for aid against neighboring Trevi. Mussolini apparently used it as a ‘camp’.

Therafter I descent to the valley into the Compello Sur Cliunno area. Its beautiful, I stop and grab a gelato near this gourgous park

Oh and of course a beer for later on when I arrive at Settecamino. It a great family run place and cheap (except for the best wines!)

Little did I realise but the family who own the accommodation also own a Enoteca just next door. A snooze was required after the great Pale Ale from Montefalco but when I ventured next door around 6pm announcing ‘wine o’clock’, Federica, the proprietors daughter appeared, introduced and helped with the selection. Federica is about to leave for Melbourne and has a work visa. Later I meet Alesandro, the son, who is about to accept a role at a restaurant in Dubai. Small world.

Maybe its just me, but I feel celebration was in order so I get a bottle of Paolo Bea, 2008 Pagliaro Sagratino and have it with some matured Pecorino. It is amazing.

Pilgrimages ….

And tomorrows Walk

I walk to Spoleto, a short walk, of only 12km’s but I need to work through some diversions due to last years earthquake. Spoleto is a treasured town and includes UNESCO World Heritage sites.  Looks like another great day in Italy.

And Don’t Forget The Good Cause

In honour of the great work Black Dog institute are doing in helping many families, corporate organisations and communities create awareness and support to deal with the pressures of life, I am raising money for this important cause.

I have passed my $3,000 target; getting close to $4,000 – but lets do more – no amount is too small. Donate here.

https://teamblackdog.everydayhero.com/au/walking-the-st-francis-way

If interested, you can read a daily debrief of my walk and see some pics on my blog: www.youcanlive2.com

You can subscribe for updates at the bottom.

 

Ciao till tomorrow.