Day 11 – Gubbio to Biscina

Day 11.

I walked today to an historic place called Biscina (snake in Italian. Today it is a partly ruined, partially renovated castle and a farm B&B. On this stage of the walk, there are not great options to stage out your trip; Gubbio to Assisi is too far at over 40km so most people choose one of the ‘Agriturismo’.

My Gubbio hotel the Bosone Palace was good. It was high on the hill inside the walls of the old city. The views over the countryside were amazing. As their restaurant was closed I was sent to the Taverna Del Lupo. I’ll start with the wine list … AMAZING … 14 very large pages of mainly Italian wines. I had 2 great courses:-

  • Steak tartare with capers, onion, quail egg and black Sardinian salt.
  • Ravioli made with unsweetened cocoa, stuffed with pears, thyme and sausage
  • Washed down with some great Umbrian red; a 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino

Steak Tartare was excellent – unlike my photo of it

Ravioli with sausage and pear also fab. The addition of the Thyme was very good.

It was a cold morning 7 degrees and fog was over the valley.

Early morning over the Chuisa Valley.

I said my goodbuys the the Gubbio streets with some regret I didn’t fully explore them.

Perhaps another day to explore Gubbio

The walk continued along the trail that St Francis walked in 1206-7 after his fall out with his family that put his on his path to forming his order. The Chiasco Valley is beautiful and consists of undulating hills, farms, woods and sadly a large number of deserted Churches.

No surprises, the first task of the day was to get more medical supplies (tape, blister bandages). I also visited a sports store and got some Teva strap on thongs (flip-flops) I won’t talk about my feet any more today, suffice to say I made it!

The first 8 kms were along quiet laneways as I headed to the green hills. I walked along a tiny little creek for a few km’s seeing brown trout swimming in the larger ponds. 

The Walk to Biscina

The walk today was 24km.

The walk was across the plains and then pretty much up and down for the rest of the day.

The first 8km was flat and I took the opportunity to skype Amanda and Mum. Anyone coming to Italy I suggest you get the 36GB TIM data service. Its brilliant faster and more reliable than most hotels and ample for a months use.

As I began to climb the hills there were great views back to Gubbio and the the small farms.

Not sure why the corn is being dried in this way?

 

Last view of Gubbio from about 8km away

Lots of hunters out again today; they were all wearing orange safety gear, their dogs had cowbells. I was in blue.

Part of the hunter pack; he even had a high visibility car.

And we continue to pass ancient churches and shrines

The tiny Madonna della Grazie Shrine

I had lunch just around the corner here at an old church. Its 13th century and closed up now.

Looks inviting for lunch

 

Locked up but its too remote – my table for lunch awaits

It was great to see the signs to Biscina, there was a tough several km climb to get there. The first glimpse of the destination is always a winner.

First view of Biscina in its prominent position overlooking Chiesa Valley

The Castle at Biscina was an important stronghold in Umbria. In the 13th century there were ongoing wars between the different regions. Biscina was owned by the Count of Coocorano who had pledged his allegiance to Perugia. It later came under the protection of the powerful Lord of Urbino and hence has survived in good shape today.

From the B&B

 

The views from the tower would be amazing

And tomorrows Walk

Two stages; the first is 16 km to Valfabricca and the second a further 13km to Assisi. I am looking forward to Assisi and a rest day. 

And Don’t Forget The Good Cause

In honour of the great work Black Dog institute are doing in helping many families, corporate organisations and communities create awareness and support to deal with the pressures of life, I am raising money for this important cause.

I have passed my $3,000 target – but lets do more – no amount is too small. 

https://teamblackdog.everydayhero.com/au/walking-the-st-francis-way

 

If interested, you can read a daily debrief of my walk and see some pics on my blog: www.youcanlive2.com 

 

You can subscribe for updates at the bottom.

 

 

Ciao till tomorrow.

 

4 thoughts on “Day 11 – Gubbio to Biscina

  • Thanks for sharing
    Nice to meet you on the trail – bon cammino, – Good luck
    /Hans of denmark

  • Enjoying your story Darren, I hope the R&R in the evening and great food and wine are almost outweighing the pain and suffering in the feet – but I’ll bet it’s a close call some days. Rest day will be good!

    • Steve, indeed. I think feet management is just one of those things you need to learn …. love everything else. Country, food, wine, culture. Its a great country. 25km is where it starts to impact. All the best and see you soon.

Comments are closed.